
Whether you have a 4-year-old notebook or a shiny new system you
bought yesterday, you can dramatically improve your PC’s performance and
productivity value for less than the cost of a nice dinner out. For
less than $100, you can purchase your choice of significant hardware
upgrades that will allow you to get more done in less time and put off
buying a new system for several more years.
1. Upgrade to SSD ($80 to $100)
There is no single upgrade that will improve your digital life more
than going from a standard hard drive to an Solid State Drive (SSD). If
you’re still using a 7,200 rpm or (gasp) 5,400 rpm drive, you’re wasting
precious seconds of your life every time you boot, open a file or a
launch a program. Instead of twiddling your thumbs while the
old-fashioned turnable-like head spins inside your hard drive, you can
be up and running in your favorite programs, including heavy
applications like Photoshop, in just a few seconds.
When we took a 5-year-old Dell Latitude D630 running Windows Vista on
a 2.4-GHz Core 2 Duo CPU and tested it with both its original 7,200-rpm
hard drive and a speedy Kingston HyperX SH100S3 SSD, it felt like we
were using two different computers. On PCMark Vantage, a synthetic
benchmark that measures system performance, upgrading to SSD raised the
D630′s overall score from 3,210 to 4,693 and its HDD score from 2,666 to
16,715.

In
real-world tests, the Latitude D630′s Vista boot time decreased by
around 20 percent, falling from an average start time of 37.3 seconds to
31 seconds. When we tested the launch times for five popular
applications (Photoshop CS5.1 opening to a 400MB TIF, Adobe Reader 10
opening to a 500 page PDF, Excel 2007 opening to a 20,000 row worksheet,
Mozilla Firefox 14 and Word 2007 opening to a blank document), each
program opened about three times faster after the SSD upgrade.
| Application |
Hard Drive Open Time (sec) |
SSD Open Time (sec) |
| Adobe Reader 10 (opening to PDF) |
6.1 |
2.3 |
| Photoshop CS 5.1 (opening to TIF) |
28.6 |
9.6 |
| Excel 2007 (opening to large worksheet) |
8.4 |
2.8 |
| Firefox 14 |
5.5 |
1.4 |
| Word 2010 |
2.1 |
0.9 |
To see how much benefit an SSD provides on a new notebook, we opened
some of the same applications and timed them on a 3rd Generation Intel
Core i7 notebook, both with a 7,200 rpm 750GB hard drive and the same
Kingston HyperX SH100S3 SSD. Even with a much newer, faster processor,
launch times were 2 to 4 times faster after the upgrade.
Today, you can get a 120 or 128GB SSD for well under $100. A quick
glance at popular retailers such as NewEgg, Tiger Direct and Amazon
shows some budget-oriented SSDs like the
OCZ Agility 3 selling for under $90 while the Samsung 830 Series, the winner of our
Fall SSD roundup, can often be found
on sale for $99 or less. If you require more capacity, you can find a 256GB drive for as little as $150.
Read More: How to Install an SSD in Your Notebook
2. Add more RAM ($20 to $40)
The more RAM your notebook has, the less time it must spend writing
to the Windows paging file on your hard drive (or SSD) to help make up
for a lack of a physical memory. Since physical memory is infinitely
faster than even the fastest SSD, you want to avoid your system needing
to use that paging file whenever possible. Even better, if you have some
memory to spare, you can
create a RAM disk which will load your favorite programs much faster than even a speedy SSD.
Most of today’s notebooks come with 4GB of RAM and moving from 4GB
(or less) up to 8GB can provide significant performance gains. If you
have DDR3 memory, the standard type since 2009, an 8GB kits (2 x 4GB
DIMMs) will cost you $40 or less.
Since most notebooks have just two slots for RAM and come with both
filled, you’ll probably have to remove your existing RAM. However, if
you do have a free slot, the cost of a 4GB DIMM is around $20. To find
out what kind of memory your notebook takes, either consult your owner’s
manual or visit an online RAM configurator like the one on
Crucial Memory’s home page.
Removing and replacing RAM on most notebooks is as simple as unscrewing
a door on the bottom of the system, popping out the old chips and
popping the new ones in.
To show the benefit of increased memory, we ran PCMark 07, a leading
synthetic benchmark, on an Intel 3rd Generation Core i7 CPU, with both
4GB and 8GB of RAM installed. With 8GB installed, the benchmark returned
a score of 3,398, about 9 percent higher than the mark or 3,121 it
provided with 4GB on board.

We also tried configuring 4 out of the 8GB as a RAM disk, using
DataRAM’s free RAMDisk software. With some of our favorite programs
installed on the RAM disk, we were able to cut open times in half from
what they were on a 7,200 rpm hard drive and reduce them even further
when we paired the RAM Disk with an SSD.
| Application |
HDD Only (sec) |
HDD / RAM Disk (sec) |
SSD Only (sec) |
SSD w/ RAM Disk (sec) |
| Adobe Reader 10 (opening to large PDF) |
7 |
3.6 |
3.5 |
3.1 |
| Excel 2010 (opening to large spreadsheet) |
10 |
4.1 |
3.7 |
1.9 |
| Photoshop CS 5.1 (opening to 400MB TIF) |
22.1 |
9.7 |
5.5 |
4.8 |
| Word 2010 |
3.1 |
1.6 |
0.8 |
0.4 |
Read More: Turn Your Extra Memory Into a RAM Disk
3. Get an external monitor ($80 to $100)

You
can never be too rich, too thin or have too many pixels on your
desktop. If you’re just relying on your laptop’s single screen, you’re
slowing yourself down, because you can’t fit enough windows on the
screen at once.
Just imagine this situation. You’re working on a PowerPoint
presentation in one window while using data from an Excel sheet that’s
in another window, looking up some facts on the Web in your browser and
keeping track of your email in a fourth window. Every time you switch
windows — either by hitting ALT tab or by navigating to the task bar —
you’re wasting a good 2 seconds and taxing your short-term human memory
because you have to remember the contents of a window that’s now covered
over.
With an external monitor attached, you can add a whole second
desktop, which can either show one full screen window or two half
windows that are docked next to each other. These days, you can get an
18.5- or 20-inch monitor today for $80 to $100. A quick survey of online
retail sites shows several
20-inch, 1600 x 900 monitors
priced at just under $100 and 18.5-inchers with 1366 x 768 resolutions
starting as low as $80. If you’re willing to splurge, you can find a
1080p, 22- or 23-inch monitor for well under $150.
If you want a monitor you can take with you on the road, you can find a portable, USB-powered monitor such as the
15.6-inch AOC e1649Fwu for under $100. However, we prefer the lighter, more portable, but more expensive $174
Lenovo ThinkVision LT1421.
Read More: 15 Ways to Accelerate Your PC’s Slowest Component: You!
4. Step up to 802.11n Wi-Fi ($10 to $20)
If your notebook is more than three years old, it may have an older
802.11g wireless radio, which is significantly slower and less reliable
than the current 802.11n standard. With 802.11n, you move from a
theoretical maximum of just 54 Mbps to 150 or 300 Mbps, depending on
your router and radio.
While the stepping up from 54 to 150 Mbps probably won’t improve Web
page loads, it will enable you to transfer files a lot faster within
your home or office network. That means better streaming from your media
center, better backups to connected storage drives and faster copying
of photos to and from your family members’ PCs. If you have an extremely
fast fiber optic broadband plan such as Verizion’s 300 Mbps FIOS
Quantum, you’ll see a boost in video streaming and file downloads. No
matter what you’re doing, you’ll also see an increase in range, making
it easier to get a strong signal when you’re further away from the
router.

The good news is that you can get an 802.11n Wi-Fi dongle that plugs
into one of your USB ports for under $20. For just $10, Rosewill’s $9.99
RNX-MiniN1 802.11n dongle offers speeds up to 150 Mbps and is so tiny
that it looks like one of those nano receivers that come with some
wireless mice. The $16.99 Rosewill RNX-MiniN2 sticks out a little bit
more, but offers up to 300 Mbps and is still short enough to stay
attached to your notebook when you stick it in your bag. If you don’t
already have an 802.11n router at home, you can purchase one for as
little as $25 for a 150 Mbps unit or under $50 for a 300 Mbps model.
To see just how much additional throughput you get from upgrading to
802.11n, we used the Netperf benchmark to test an old Dell Latitude D630
laptop with its native 802.11g Wi-Fi, and then with the Rosewill
RNX-MiniN1 and the faster Rosewill RNX-MiniN2. Though our results on the
small file transfer were well below what’s theoretically possible even
with 802.11g, there was a clear difference in performance between the
three adapters.
Read More: Which Dual-Band Wi-Fi Router is Best?
5. Get an external battery ($70)

If
your notebook provides over 12 hours of endurance, perhaps you can live
without more battery life. Whether you’re sitting on an airplane or
lying on the couch, you don’t want to have to worry about finding and
tethering yourself to an outlet.
Unfortunately, in LAPTOP’s tests, the average mainstream notebook
provides just five and a half hours of endurance at 40 percent
brightness. Even worse, more and more new systems come with sealed
batteries you can’t replace, so forget about buying an extended unit or
carrying a spare.
However, for around $70, you can purchase an external notebook battery such as the $69
Veho Pebble Pro.
I’ve been using the Pebble Pro for a couple of months now and found
that the 13,200 mAH battery provides another several hours of charge to
my notebook while, at just 14 ounces, barely adding any weight to my
bag. Because the battery comes with 10 different connectors, it works
with nearly any brand of PC notebook on the market and is able to charge
a phone or tablet at the same time.
source; laptopmag.CoM